Caravan buyers' guide
Buying a caravan is a great way to get more out of your leisure time, have more holidays and weekends away, and create great memories that you’ll never forget, so it is important to make sure you buy the right one.
Contemplating caravan ownership is a big deal – an investment that needs to pay off. It’s also a passport to freedom, to holiday whenever you want, in your own space and on your own terms.
Caravans have come on a long way, and it can be overwhelming to choose which one will suit you best, so we’ve put this guide together to help you start your journey. We’ll cover all the basics and help you work out what matters most to you when it comes to making that all important purchase.
Here are the links to the major sections of this guide:
Are twin-axle caravans more stable?
Snaking: what causes it and what should you do?
Caravan storage and security
Caravan weight
It’s not the most exciting topic but it’s the most important so let’s tackle it first. If you don’t get this right in the first instance, it can really put you off caravanning for life. Before you buy any caravan, you need to understand the weight of both the caravan and your car. Why? Because your choice of caravan will be affected by two things:
- The caravan needs to be a safe and sensible match for your car, considering the car manufacturer’s towing limit
- Your driving licence entitlement may affect what you’re legally allowed to tow
We don’t want to bamboozle you with jargon but there are a few weight terms you’ll come across when buying a caravan. Don’t worry – once you know what they mean, it all starts to make sense. Our ‘jargon’ section will help here. Lesson one, though – we describe a car and caravan together as the ‘outfit’. Fancy.
Matching your car and caravan
A good rule of thumb for newer caravanners is that the caravan’s fully-loaded weight should ideally be no more than around 85% of the car’s kerbweight. This isn’t a legal requirement, but it’s a sensible guideline that can help make towing more stable and comfortable.
Why? Because you want to feel the car is in control and not feel like it’s the caravan controlling the car. If the caravan is too heavy compared with the car, strong winds, passing lorries or sudden movements can have a much bigger impact on the outfit.
That said, towing has also changed over the years. Modern caravans often come with stability systems, and many experienced caravanners are comfortable towing closer to the car’s limits. However, for anyone starting out choosing a well-matched car and caravan is the best way to build confidence.
Also, don’t just look at how powerful your car is. A car might have plenty of engine power to pull a caravan, but towing is about much more than getting moving. Weight balance, stability and handling are what really matter.
Always check your car manufacturer’s towing limit before buying. This may be lower than the car’s own weight, and the manufacturer will also provide a maximum permitted weight for the car and caravan combined. We know this all sounds a bit dreary but it’s your due diligence and once you’ve sorted it, you’ll be closer to going away on that cheeky minibreak.
Your driving licence and towing limits
Your driving licence entitlement depends on when you passed your test and what categories you have.
If you passed your car test before 1 January 1997, you would usually have automatic entitlement to tow heavier combinations (known as B+E).
If you passed your test on or after 1 January 1997, the rules have changed. However, since the rules were updated in 2021, most car drivers can now tow trailers and caravans up to 3,500kg maximum authorised mass (MAM) without taking an additional test.
If you want to tow a heavier caravan combination, you may need additional entitlement depending on your licence and the weights involved.
The easiest thing to do is check your driving licence details and make sure they match the caravan you’re considering before you buy.
Size limits
There are also limits on the size and weight of caravans that can be towed by a standard car (with a maximum gross vehicle weight of up to 3,500kg). A trailer or caravan must not exceed:
- A maximum laden weight of 3,500kg
- A maximum width of 2.55m
- A maximum body length of seven metres (not including the drawbar and hitch)
If you’re looking at something bigger, you’ll need to make sure your towing vehicle is suitable – which may mean moving into a larger vehicle category. This isn’t something we’d recommend for a new caravanner, however.
Don’t forget the payload
Finally, think about what you’ll put inside your caravan.
The payload is the difference between the caravan’s empty weight and its maximum permitted weight. It covers everything you add, from clothes and bedding to kitchen equipment, bikes and outdoor chairs. Likely, there’s more stuff than you think, especially if you’ve got kids.
It’s easy to underestimate how quickly all those little extras add up, and an overloaded caravan can affect safety, handling and could put you on the wrong side of the law and the road.
OK, so that’s the weight issue covered. Still with us? Let’s move along.
Caravan size
Once you establish the weights you’re looking at, you’ll need to consider the size of the caravan and the living space you want. There’s compact two-berths that would work well for couples and larger ones that give a family all they need without getting under each other’s feet.
The right size for you will depend on a few things. Firstly, there’s the weight (see our ‘weight’ section above). It’s easy to fall in love with a bigger caravan but remember that extra space usually means extra weight – and your car needs to be able to tow it safely. You’ll also need to think about how and where you plan to use your caravan.
If you’re dreaming of touring abroad or exploring smaller islands, a larger caravan may cost more to take with you. Many ferry operators base their prices on the length of your vehicle and caravan combination, and they will usually check the measurements. It’s always best to be honest.
Size can also make a difference once you arrive at your destination. A larger caravan will need a bigger awning, which can mean extra cost and while modern caravans are becoming wider and more spacious with many options now eight feet wide.
Motorways and main roads are easy enough, but some of the best caravan destinations involve narrow country lanes, tight corners and smaller campsites where a more compact caravan may be easier to handle. On that note, if a campsite owner tells you not to follow your Sat Nav, listen to them.
Don’t forget about storage
If you’re planning to keep your caravan at home, do you have enough driveway space? Will you be able to move it easily when loading up for trips? And if you’re storing it elsewhere, is the location convenient enough for regular use?
A bigger caravan gives you more room to enjoy your time away, but the best caravan is the one that fits your lifestyle – both on and off the road.
Caravan layout
Beds and beyond
Take fixed beds, for example. They've become hugely popular because they save you from making up the bed every night, leaving the lounge ready to use whenever you need it. If convenience is high on your priority list, they're hard to beat.
The trade-off is that a permanent bed takes up space. Some buyers would rather have a larger seating area during the day, especially if they spend most of their time relaxing inside the caravan. It's a classic case of convenience versus living space.
If you do decide on a fixed bed, there are several layouts to choose from. Twin single beds are a favourite with many couples, while transverse doubles and French beds (not quite as exciting as the name suggests) offer different ways of making the most of the available space. Some larger caravans even place a double bed at the rear, with the washroom acting as a divider between the bedroom and the front lounge.
What about a washroom?
Washrooms are another feature where opinions differ. Some caravanners regularly use the onboard shower, while others are perfectly happy using campsite facilities instead.
Even if you don't plan to shower in your caravan, a separate shower cubicle can still be useful. It makes a handy space for drying wet coats, storing outdoor gear or keeping muddy boots out of the way. That's one reason why separate showers have become increasingly common in modern caravans.
Large end washrooms are another popular option. Positioned across the rear of the caravan, they provide plenty of room to shower, get dressed and store clothes, often with a full-height wardrobe included. They can make the caravan feel a little more luxurious, although not everyone wants to dedicate that much floor space to a bathroom. Some owners also prefer not to have the extra weight of a fully loaded wardrobe at the back while towing.
Other layouts place the washroom in a rear corner or in the centre of the caravan. A central washroom can create a useful divide between the bedroom and lounge, although side-mounted versions can make the walkway feel slightly narrower.
Considering the family
Buying a used caravan
Make sure it isn't stolen
It’s obvious but it happens! Start by checking the caravan's paperwork. The seller should be able to provide proof of ownership, along with service records and receipts if they've had work carried out.
It's also worth looking for any signs of tampering around the hitch, door locks, windows, VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) and weight plate as these can indicate the caravan has been stolen or repaired after theft.
If the caravan was built from 1992 onwards, you can also check its history through the Caravan Registration & Identification Scheme (CRiS), which can confirm its identity and highlight any outstanding finance.
Check carefully for damp
Damp is one of the biggest problems you can encounter with a used caravan – and one of the most expensive to put right.
Because caravans spend their lives exposed to the weather and flex slightly while being towed, seals can deteriorate over time, allowing water to find its way inside.
The highest-risk areas are around the front windows, rooflights, TV aerials and the front and rear corners of the caravan. A damp meter can help identify hidden moisture, but if you're unsure, it's worth paying for a professional inspection before handing over any money.
Don't overlook the tyres
Caravan tyres often have plenty of tread because they cover relatively low mileages, but tread depth isn't the only thing that matters.
Over time, sunlight, weather and the weight of the caravan can cause the rubber to deteriorate, leading to cracks in the sidewalls. In the worst case, this can result in a blowout while towing.
As a general rule, caravan tyres should be replaced every four to five years, regardless of how much tread remains.
Ask when it was last serviced
A full annual service is recommended for every caravan and is essential if it's still covered by a manufacturer's warranty.
During a service, a technician will inspect key safety items including the gas system, electrical installation, brakes, running gear, hitch, heating system and tyres. A service should also include a damp inspection, giving you extra peace of mind before you buy.
Even if a caravan appears to be in excellent condition, a recent service history is a good indication that it has been properly maintained and cared for.
Are twin-axle caravans more stable?
Twin-axle caravans are often regarded as being more stable than single-axle models because they have four wheels sharing the load instead of two. In the right conditions, that can make them feel more settled on the road, particularly when towing larger caravans.
That said, stability depends on far more than the number of axles. A poorly loaded caravan, incorrect noseweight or excessive speed can make any caravan unstable, regardless of its design.
It's also worth remembering that twin-axle caravans tend to be larger and heavier, with a greater side profile. That means they're more likely to be affected by strong crosswinds or the turbulence created by passing HGVs, even if only for a moment.
There are practical considerations too. With an extra axle comes extra maintenance, including twice as many tyres to inspect and replace, along with higher servicing costs. They're also less manoeuvrable by hand than a comparable single-axle caravan, particularly in tight spaces.
For many buyers, the choice comes down to size rather than stability. If you need the extra living space that a larger caravan offers, a twin axle often makes sense. If you're looking for something easier to tow and store, a single-axle model may be the better fit.
Snaking: what causes it and what should you do?
The idea of a caravan 'snaking' can sound intimidating to first-time buyers, but it's far less likely if your caravan is correctly matched to your tow car, loaded properly and driven at sensible speeds.
When packing, place heavier items as low down as possible and close to the axle. This helps keep the caravan balanced and improves stability while towing.
Most modern caravans are also fitted with hitch stabilisers, either as standard or as an optional extra. These help reduce unwanted movement and provide extra reassurance, particularly in windy conditions or when overtaking larger vehicles.
If your caravan does begin to snake, the most important thing is to stay calm. Ease off the accelerator and allow the outfit to slow down gradually while keeping the steering straight. Avoid braking sharply or trying to accelerate out of the situation – despite the myths, increasing speed is likely to make the instability worse.
Caravan storage and security
Like any valuable vehicle, a caravan is an attractive target for thieves, so good security and comprehensive insurance are essential.
Most insurers will require you to use security devices whenever the caravan is left unattended. A hitch lock and wheel clamp are the minimum in many cases, whether the caravan is parked at home, on a campsite or during a stop at services.
Additional security measures, such as upgraded door locks, tracking devices and alarm systems, can provide extra peace of mind and may even reduce your insurance premium.
Where you store your caravan also matters. If you're using a dedicated storage facility, look for one that's accredited by the Caravan Storage Site Owners' Association (CaSSOA), as these sites are independently assessed for their security standards.
If you plan to keep your caravan at home, check whether there are any restrictions in your property's deeds or local planning rules. Wherever it's stored, it's a good idea to inspect it regularly for signs of damage, water ingress or storm-related issues, particularly during the winter months.
Caravan equipment and features
Even entry-level caravans are typically well equipped. Most include mains electric hook-up, heating, hot water, a fridge, cooking facilities and a washroom with a toilet and shower, giving you everything you need for comfortable touring.
Move up through the range and you'll find features such as dual-fuel hobs, larger fridges, separate ovens and grills, upgraded upholstery and higher-quality interior finishes. Premium models may also include panoramic sunroofs, more sophisticated heating systems and additional storage.
It's worth paying attention to the smaller details too. Check how many mains sockets the caravan has and where they're positioned, especially if you'll be using hairdryers, TVs or charging multiple devices. USB charging ports are now common on newer caravans and can often be retrofitted to older models.
Most UK-built caravans have the entrance door on the nearside (passenger side), making it safer to get in and out when stopping beside the road.
When buying a used caravan, ask what's included in the sale. Accessories such as an awning, fresh and waste water containers, levelling ramps, steps and kitchen equipment can save you hundreds of pounds if they're included.
One of the most desirable extras is a motor mover. These electric motors attach to the caravan's wheels, allowing you to manoeuvre it into position using a handheld remote control. They're particularly useful when parking on a driveway or pitching on a campsite and are a feature many buyers actively look for on the used market.
Caravan jargon
Buying your first caravan can mean getting to grips with a few unfamiliar terms including noseweight which isn’t of course, how big your snout is. Let’s have a look.
MTPLM (Maximum Technically Permissible Laden Mass)
The maximum weight your caravan is allowed to weigh when fully loaded. This includes everything inside the caravan, from clothing and food to gas bottles and water. You'll find the MTPLM on the caravan's weight plate, usually near the entrance door.
MRO (Mass in Running Order)
The weight of the caravan as it leaves the manufacturer with its standard equipment, plus any allowances specified by the manufacturer. It doesn't include your personal belongings or any optional accessories fitted later.
Payload
The difference between the caravan's MRO and its MTPLM. In simple terms, it's the maximum amount of luggage, equipment and other items you can safely load into the caravan.
Noseweight
Noseweight is the amount of downward force the caravan's hitch applies to the towball. Every tow car has a maximum permitted noseweight, and it's important not to exceed it. Too little noseweight can make a caravan unstable, while too much can overload the rear of the tow car. A dedicated noseweight gauge makes checking easy, although many owners also use bathroom scales with a suitable support. For the most accurate reading, the caravan should be level.
Kerbweight
A car's kerbweight is its weight ready to drive, including fuel and essential fluids. Depending on the manufacturer, it may also include a standard allowance for the driver. It's commonly used when calculating suitable caravan matches, although manufacturers don't all calculate kerbweight in exactly the same way.
GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) or MAM (Maximum Authorised Mass)
This is the maximum legal weight of a vehicle once it's fully loaded with passengers, luggage and any other cargo. It must never be exceeded.
GTW (Gross Train Weight)
The maximum combined weight of the tow car and trailer or caravan when loaded. This figure is set by the vehicle manufacturer and must not be exceeded.